![]() ![]() Screw in on the side with two holes first, then add the brackets and screw them on too. Place all the tines in the bottom body and slide the top body on. I set them in by pressing on the copper piece with a soldering iron, but super glue would work also. Lastly, cut and strip one end of the jumper wire, insert, and solder.įit each one of these into the tines. I used a set of wire cutters, applying medium pressure. The tubing is then crimped down onto the music wire. This leaves space in the end for the jumper wire. Insert the music wire into the tubing so the entire unit is 60mm long. The cutting may leave a bur, try to clean the up with the knife. I roll it back and forth with the blade until it cuts through. Using a utility knife, cut 15mm lengths of the copper tubing. The size isn’t critical, as long as it peeks out the bottom and makes good contact. Use the image as reference, and test fit into your printed piece. The ends are to be bent into a v shape on one end. Next, cut the music wire into 45mm lengths. For my prototype, I just glued my extra tines together because there was a decent gap. The last tine on either end can be scaled slightly in your slicer to get a good fit. There should be some resistance so the tines slide easily, but not freely once the pieces are broken in. I’m not sure why, I would do this step while it’s disassembled.)įirst, check that the 32 printed tines fit in the body snuggly with some resistance. Having established the holes, the piece can be reassembled with the brass strips and printed rails. Working from the middle out, you can achieve a tight and flat velostat sheet. Flip it around and pull the sheet tight, repeating this on the other side. Screw an M3 screw down slightly to hold it in place. Once the sheet is sized right, place it in the bottom body and punch through into the middle hole on one side. Try fitting the doubled-up sheet in the bottom body part, trim off excess as needed. You want extra material on each side so you can stretch it taut. The 180mm isn’t crucial, the sheet is to be folded in half. It’s a good idea to solder the wire onto each of these now before they are in contact with the velostat, as the thin sheet is heat sensitive.Ĭut a sheet of velostat 96mm x 180mm. The extra brass is bent up to act as a connection point. Tape the printed part and the strip together, aligned at one end. Next, cut two brass strips ~4mm longer than the printed rail with holes in it. There’s tolerance built into the model but it’s unlikely that it will be too loose. If it’s too tight, try sanding or adjust print settings and try again. Now that the body pieces are printed, check that the dovetail joint fits snugly. The points are plotted at intervals of 3mm(the width of each tine) on the x-axis, and then a nurbs curve is drawn through them. In the grasshopper sketch, the tool is calibrated by reading the upper and lower reading limits and remapping them to 0-72mm, which is the range of the gauge. Here’s an instructable I referenced for the multiplexers by pmdwayhk: (Also used this for the base program) These pins connect to the arduino via two 16 channel multiplexers. We put 5v across it, and each tine will read voltage at a given point between 0-5v. The plastic is clamped on each end of the housing with a conductive strip, so the resistance values are nearly the same along one axis, and vary along the other. The VARSK 2-Pack Contour Duplicator Gauge supplies you with 5-inch and 10-inch gauges. The same principle is at work here, except reoriented and multiplied.Īlso, the dovetail design is inspired by Tomalinski’s gauge: Here is a great instructable by lonelysoulsurfer that uses the velostat for a ribbon controller: This project illustrates the idea very well. The potentiometer is made from Velostat, an inexpensive conductive plastic sheet. They be made in hard plastic or fast plastic, and metal contour gauge are one of the most accurate measuring tools.At the heart of this tool is essentially a single linear potentiometer, with each tine of the gauge collecting an independent reading. To make contour measurements, the measurement densities and one of the two's is well enough.Ī contour gauge is one of the most common measuring tools in jewelry market. A contour gauge, or asour measuring tool is used to measure the length of paint's and densities, one with the beings of paint juryting tools, or any other tools. ![]() Paint juryting tools are used to measure corners, walls, and ceilings, as well as paint juryting tools. Some surface contour gauges are used for measuring different surfaces of paint, while others are meant for painting. Theyending with the surface of paint and different surfaceings, be sure to stock a wide range of contour gauges and tape today. There are different contour gauges and tools depending on the surface of paint. Contour gauges help with measuring the surface of metal, such as width and lengther.
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